When I’m in my favourite place on the planet I like to get up about sunrise and walk the length of the beach. When I start it is dark, and when I reach the end and turn for home the clear warm light of the golden hour is illuminating the sea and the coarse yellow sand. And there are my footprints, the markers of this morning’s pilgrimage laid out for all to see them, at least, ‘til the tide comes in a bit. They tell a story of my own attentativeness. Why, out of the thousand possible routes did I choose this one? Why did I stop there? Why not here? What a person pays attention to tells you a lot about them. That’s as true of me as it is of everybody else.
The Christmas before last our kids gave us Ancestry.com kits. You know the deal: you spit into a test tube, send it over to Ireland, and in a month or so you get a wadge of paper in the mail telling you who you are. I've never, previously, been interested in all that stuff. I knew my forbears came to Aotearoa in the 1850's from Britain but I didn't know from where, exactly. Clemency's results, as it turns out, were pretty interesting. She was born in England, but has ancestors from various European places, and some who are Ngāti Raukawa, so she can whakapapa back to a little marae called Kikopiri, near Ōtaki. And me? It turns out I'm more British than most British people. Apart from a smattering of Norse - probably the result of some Viking raid in the dim distant past - all my tūpuna seem to have come from a little group of villages in Nottinghamshire. Now I've been to the UK a few times, and I quite like it, but it's not home: my heart and soul belon
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